Time for a Viennese whirl? Short of going back to the future to 1930s Austria, Fischer’s in Marylebone, the latest retro period ‘grand -cafe’ from Corbin & King, would keep any Von Trapp happy. More bijoux than more expansive siblings The Wolseley and The Delaunay, Fischer’s is a stylishly realised homage, all sepia-tinted decor, oil paintings, boar’s heads and other hunter’s trophies lining the walls, antique porcelain and pewter, with a grand station clock dominating the extravagantly cosy dining room.
It’s an all day diner, with some pretty stunning looking konditorei (patisserie) but this evening we are here for dinner. After slightly underwhelming cocktails (possibly not Fischer’s forte) we ordered herring, salmon and kasespatzle to kick things off. Now we are cooking… herring comes three ways: Bismarck, sweet mustard and smoked, with nordic rye bread, pickled veg and whipped butter. I am not sure the Austrians of the day were weightwatchers. The trio of salmon came grapefruit & beetroot cured as well as smoked, with horseradish cream. Kasespatzle is an indulgently rich germanic mac & cheese (with or without bacon). The star of the starters was the herring but I am a sucker for an upscale roll-mop.
As much as I was tempted by the line-up of classic Wurstchen – think furter festival, I can’t resist Wiener Schnitzel Holstein. Veal in breadcrumbs with anchovy, capers, fried egg and, slightly incongruously, ‘jus parisienne’. Alongside grilled Lamb Neck Cutlets with cabbage. Plus saurkraut and a zingy Austrian potato salad. Sturdy. The Holstein comes in two sizes, large and even larger and is right on the schilling. Wine is ‘mittel-european’ with almost all available by the glass, for easy pick and mixing.
If I had the capacity to even imagine dessert, surely it would have been a signature strudel but discretion is sometimes the better part of valour. As well as breakfast, lunch and dinner, you could just as easily pop into Fischer’s for a beer and ‘a dog’ or one of their oh-so-indulgent Schokoladengenuss. Goodnight, farewell, auf wiedersehen, goodbye.
50 Marylebone High St, W1U 5HN
020 7466 5501